The ruins aren't behind a big fence. They are out for everyone to see. If you want to walk around inside the ruins themselves, you have to pay 8 Euro and that comes with an audio guide so you can learn all the details you want.
Finally today, after walking past the roman site 3 times (or more) a day for almost 2 weeks, we toured them. [We could see them, just never walk in them.]
It was an early start. Dan got up with Julia around 7:11, and I got up at 8:00. (Oh glory be! I got to sleep in!) Dan made cantaloupe and scrambled egg plates for everyone, then we set out.
One thing about having kids (and being up early) is that we get to things when they open. The Roman sites started at 9:30 and we were there at 9:38, and that is after we went to a bakery! We forked over 16 Euro (the kids were free, which is so nice) and were the first inside. There is something special about having roman ruins all to your self. You can really ponder them - really enjoy them - and really step into the past.
We didn't bother with the audio guide, mainly because we'd been to this same site the last time we were here 5 years ago, and because with kids it is nearly impossible to listen to something other than them.
Just walking around was fun. We explored the 2,000 year old kitchen, shops, saw statues, frescos, mosaics, and just had fun. You could take the site very seriously, but we mainly toured it as if it were a park. Even Sara said, "is this a play ground?" when she saw it.
A true highlight was going to the old amphitheater. The Romans had cut a tunnel into rock to provide a whammy of an entrance. Sara had no fear. She walked right into the tunnel and danced to the other side. You could see the light at the end of the tunnel the whole time, but it was awe inspiring to think of all those people all those years ago, taking the same steps we were taking.
Once through the tunnel we saw the amphitheater. It is a semi-circle with 6,000 seats. The view is of the valley and mountains -- and the stage. Sara and Julia sat together on the rock seats and look right at home on the ancient seats. The wind was blowing their hair around - swirling it everywhere - and the whole thing was like something out of a movie. So much fun.
After that we found a whole other walk way that was almost as cool as the tunnel. It was an interior walkway that had entrances into the amphitheater -- but this walkway was super tall. Just like the tunnel, I was speechless -- except to say "this is so cool" as Sara dashed around inside - treating it as just another thing to explore. "Mom this is old!" she said, knowing that all the things she was looking at were made a long time ago.
We went to the museum, which is very well done. They have statues, a good movie to show what the roman city once looked like, and tools they used. Fascinating.
All this was before 11:30. We left to go find lunch. The ticket was good for 24 hours so there was no need to stay. We ended up going to the main square (Monfort) to get pizza take out. We ordered entirely in French, and he held up 10 fingers to tell us how long to wait. The pizza chef had to make our pizza fresh. It was easy to wait 10 minutes. We just went to the bakery! It was the bakery that I like, on the corner, with the sweet lady. She is so sweet, I think she knows us know. She gave Sara and Julia free bread, and we also got two french baguettes. She ends every interaction with a smile - and it is such fun to pop into her bakery.
We got our pizza and ate it here on the outside table. It was windy. The minstrel wind has really picked up. After enjoying every bite of that fresh hot pizza Julia took a 3 hour nap. (!) I took an hour nap while Dan/Sara played. Then I played with Sara until Julia woke up. We even did a video Skype with Grandpa! She was most eager to show him her new ring. It is her current prized possession - with tiny red sparkly stones around a tiny white stone. It was 2 euro at a market - and she just loves it. "I will wear it every day forever" she says.
When Julia woke up Sara/Julia/I left to go to the other roman site. (There are 2 main sites.) Dan telecommuted. I didn't bring the Kelty carrier or the stroller. I just through caution to the wind and let them both walk. Julia is 1.5 years and I swear she can probably walk a mile - and she is getting very good at steps! (More on that later.)
It was a sunny afternoon. Breezy. All I had were the girls, a bottle of water, and a baguette. I kept it simple.
The roman site was all ours (it was the different one - not the one we had seen in the morning with Dan). There are no employees there. It is totally self guided. I let the girls wander around how they wanted - a treat for them (to be free!) and a treat for me (to watch them explore!) -- and it all totaled to be super fun.
Julia was very independent. The first walk way into the site was a lot of steps. She just made her own way down. Sometimes she sat down and did the step on her butt. Sometimes she used a pillar to hold on to. But she never faltered, never complained, she just kept on trucking down those steps. I was so proud and pleased. Sara flew down the steps. She loved exploring. How could she not? It was neat.
I think we left there around 5:30, which is normally time to think about putting Julia to bed (at 6:00) but her long nap let us stay out extra long.
After our great time at the ruins, I decided we may as well tour the cathedral. Just like the ruins, we walk past it every day. Right passed it - not near it - right passed it. So it was neat to finally walk in. The huge wooden doors were shut. I thought it might be closed. But I wasn't shy about walking up and opening the doors. I'm glad I did. The church was empty, open, and quiet - and all ours to explore and enjoy.
It is in all the guide books - the cathedral is an example of Provencal Romanesque, with an awesome cloister. I agree. From the moment we stepped in I said "whao" and I've been in a lot of European churches -- (which after a while, even grand churches start to blend in since there are so many grand churches in Europe) this church was a "whao." I wouldn't say it was pretty - but the interior had such an awesome shape - those Romans sure knew how to design things. The girls were drawn right to the cloister. I followed. Sara and Julia did laps around it - and they wandered in the garden. They were free spirits - just having fun - and spending time in the cathedral and the cloister only served to add to our already wonderful afternoon.
Before we left the cathedral Sara and Julia went right up to the altar. Other tourists were there too. It was up 5 steps. Julia has always been good about going up steps -and today she went down those 5 steps like a pro! (Not on her butt and not holding onto anything!) The first time she did it she clapped for herself and looked me in the eye to say "did you see that?" Then, she went to the top and bottom of those steps no less then 15 more times! I think she enjoyed the practice and the accomplishment! I just let her do it - that is a major plus about not being in a hurry - I can indulge Sara and/or Julia when they want to do something - no need to hurry them onto the "next thing" I can just let them enjoy the moment.
Finally, after all that fun we went back to the apartment. (Well we did a quick stop at the store to buy some pork - which was great since they have a little kid-play area at the store so they got to play a bit - using chalk on a chalkboard etc.) I made dinner (green peppers, red peppers, onion, garlic stir fry; pork with herbs; and pasta) and the girls cleaned their plates! All that fun made them hungry.
Julia went right to bed and Sara composed a few fairy-tales on the iPad before she went to bed too. (Sara is quite a story teller, she makes up full stories all day long - both real and fictional.)
It was a full day. My pedometer says 29 flights of stairs, all the up and down walking around here adds up! And 13,149 steps (5.74 miles). Sara must have walked all that also - so good for her!
Quotes of the day:
Sara: "Mom, wouldn't it be funny if you were a crayon?"
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Sara: "Mom, over here! I'm going to show you something you've never seen before! It is going to be amazing!" (at the roman ruins)
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