Here is how Dan described today to his co-workers (the pictures that he gave links to are 360 views he made while we were there. I'm in one of them):
For anyone who liked castles as a kid, we went to Chateau de Commarque this morning (http://www.commarque.com/#!come-to-commarque/ck9h): http://360.io/5MwAzg http://360.io/wPHyhv http://360.io/zhhbCw http://360.io/JtgBRb) The truly incredible thing is that there is evidence of human residence in this valley for the last ~100,000 years. And it was largely forgotten after the 16th century, so when someone bought it and started researching / restoring it in the 1960s, it wasn't wrecked by modern man. There were cave dwellings right on the surface level…but when those dwellings were built, the ground level was 20m below present day!
Here is how I'd describe the day:
We wanted to make it a low-key day, so we decided to drive to a nearby place where we could walk through the woods to a castle. That sounded perfect. And, it was.
The name is "Chateau de Commarque." A 15 minute rural drive brought us to its parking lot. It was so empty I said, "is this open?" We put Julia in the Kelty back-carrier, and Sara on her own two feet- and set out into the woods. The path to the castle is entirely wooded. The only light was patches of sunlight that managed to swivel around the trees and reach the ground. It was all natural. (No pavement etc) We marveled at the many shades of moss growing everywhere. On the trees, on the fallen branches, and carpeting the ground.
Sara skipped, hopped, walked, ran, and hiked with us. She chatted (or sang) the whole way. A common question was "where are we going?" followed closely by "why?"
I didn't time the walk, it was probably 20 minutes. We weren't in any rush. No one was around. It felt, and was remote. When we finally saw what looked like the site, the first thing we noticed were rock walls with notches - as if they were used for something. Then the castle appeared on our left. It rose up towards the sky. While our eyes took in the castle, our ears took in the babbling brook, which was the loudest brook I've heard -- maybe because everything else was so quiet.
We paid admission at the tiny hut. 7 Euro each (kids free). The cute French guy in the hut handed us our English multi-page brochure and we went on our merry way. The first thing we did was walk towards the other castle you could see - up on a nearby hill. It wasn't open, but as we walked towards it and turned around you could get a good view of the castle we were there to see. Sara declaired it was picnic time, so we stopped on a wooden log bench for some pretzels and water. Then she sat by the brook for a while. I loved seeing her do that, she looked so happy. The water was clear. Super duper clear. You could see every pebble at the bottom, and the swishing tails of every tiny fish frolicking in the streamy/dreamy water. Even they looked like they were having fun.
After we enjoyed the view of "our" castle we walked over to it. There was no tour, and no real map, so we were free to wander around a castle! How much fun is that! So much!
The first stop we made while exploring the castle was the caves beneath it. Cave art is a big thing around here. People used to live in caves in the cro-magnon era. Well, at this castle we got to go into such a cave! It was like having a link with people who were cave men --- literally. It felt a tad cold, but I don't think the shivers up my spine were from the temperature, they were from the mind-blowing reality that cave dwellers one stood and lived where I was now standing. Whew.
We continued on. We wandered around the castle - stopping at the chapel, and any bit that could be explored we did. A high light was walking up into the tower - climbing all those steps to the highest point in the castle. Since we were amongst the few there (and the only in the castle at that point) it felt special. I said to Dan it felt not only like a highlight of our time in the Dordogne, but of the whole trip to France. It was a picture perfect day - and here we were exploring a castle, cave dwellings, and enjoying a pretty hike to get there and back.
We spent hours there. By the time we did the walk through the woods and back to the car it was 1:00. We wanted lunch, but didn't want the time it takes to "eat out" or the time it takes to make something at our house. So we went to Mc Donalds. There is one (exactly one) near the grocery store just out of town, so it was easy. It may seem lame to go to Mc Donalds, but around here, it is just about the only way to get food fast. And, it was packed with locals - so we weren't the only ones! It had a nice interior, and was 20 Euro, so for some reason Mc Donalds is not cheap (we only got 2 meals, and one drink). The food is different - different burgers with different sauces. The experience is different also - and it worked. Within 15 minutes we were fed. Then we went to the grocery store for several days worth of food for 60 Euro.
Back at the house (which really feels like 'our' french country home) I put Julia down for a nap, played ball, did art, lego, and so forth with Sara. When Julia got up we played by the fish pond (the girls love it - it has little fish in it and a stone bench to watch it), we played on the hill (the girls love running up and down the hill - it is dotted with yellow flowers), and we also swam in our little blow-up pool that I bought back in Uzes. It is warmer (and easier) than going in the big in ground pool. I hand-carry warm water to fill it up. The girls appreciate that versus just 100% frigid hose water. I get in the pool with them - and we splash around laughing while giving dinosaurs swim lessons (they have toys here, some of which are dinosaurs).
Dan made dinner. We ate it on the back deck. Peaceful and nice - we are getting used to this! Of all the places we've stayed on this trip - this feels the most like we are living here - the house is nice and the yard is lovely.
Well, it is time to head to sleep.
Quote of the day:
Sara: "I ran a marathon when I was three and I tripped."
[I had other quotes but they are voice memos on Dan's iPod and he is using it!]
End of Post
No comments:
Post a Comment